Semester of Shibori

Not only was spring of 2025 a semester in which I taught my graduate level dyeing and surface design class, but there was also a large scale shibori project involved in PlayMakers Repertory’s final show of the season, Little Shop of Horrors.

In this post, I will share some images of the various techniques, I and my students employed to create a wide range of surface design effects that employ occlusive dye effects.

This image is a collage of four samples I created to show 

costume designer Grier Coleman for potential use in a finale costume.

   

Techniques clockwise from top left:

 Accordion-folded and cinched with zip ties 

Stitched and gathered

Diagonally pole-wrapped and bound with twine 

Bull’s-eye tie-dye method 

The orange samples were underdyed in yellow first, direct dye on cotton, and the purple samples were underdyed in pastel mauve first, acid dye on silk. 

Because these were done for a reveal costume in the finale, I don’t have stage shots of the full look (Because spoilers! The show is closed now, but the point is no photos were taken during photo call because it would spoil the surprise at the end), but if you know the show, these are for Audrey II‘s giant flower when the plant blooms at the end.

This one was actually used, pole-wrapped acid dye on China silk

This one was also used, stitched and gathered, direct dye on lightweight cotton. 

STUDENT WORK

This is a project by one of my students, undergraduate Lene Wojcik. 

Accordion folded and stitched, direct dye on an existing cotton shirt

Itajime shibori technique by first year grad student Bailey Doran

She found a study done by scholars at the University of Nebraska 

in which they used dimensional blocks and a 

folding and clamping technique to create a complex repeat

 Bailey designed, laser cut, and constructed her own press board design 

Here are the boards Bailey made at left, 

the clamps in the foreground which she also made, 

and the dyed yardage at the rear. 

Bailey used acid dye on silk fabric. She first underdyed the yardage pink, using Rit dye with white vinegar in our dye studio washing machine. Then she did the Itajime folding/clamping before overdyeing with green. 

 

The class was five students in all, and the other three also created shibori projects, although I apparently neglected to get decent photos of them. It happens, it was back in March at this point.

 

Regardless, what a shibori-filled semester!