Millinery Foundation: blocking net

 

Super excited for the return of blocking net!

This millinery foundation material hasn’t been widely available in the US since before I learned millinery in the 1990s, although I have seen it inside of vintage hats in costume collections. Also called “Paris net” or “Dior net”, it’s used as the base for a hat that needs a stable foundation, but also breathable airflow. So in theatrical millinery primarily things like draped and stabilized turbans or quick-change headwraps.

I ordered this piece from Hatsupply.com, who carry it in white, ivory, & black. It’s comes shipped in a roll.

When it arrived, I was surprised at the stiffness of the hand, reminiscent of heavy buckram. I thought it might be similarly treated with water-based stiffener so that it could be blocked and shaped over a form.

I have never worked with this material in raw form, only refurbished vintage hats or antique pieces, which have often been crushed in storage. Any stiffener that might have been present in those hats sweated out long ago. 

Whenever I saw it inside old hats, I knew what it was because I had seen illustrations and photos of it in mid 20th century millinery manuals, in sections on foundation materials. Sometimes a milliner I was working for would bemoan the fact that it was no longer available.

First, I took a scrap and tested the blockability of this new-to-me material. I was pleased to discover that, unlike at least one type of black heavy buckram I have worked with before, the material doesn’t leach black dye onto your hands or into a bath of warm water when activated.

Whenever I have had to make a draped turban of the sort that one might use this material for, I have made my own approximation, using scrim and hat stiffener. 

Bottom pic shows theatrical scrim used in place of blocking net for the base foundation of this draped turban made for a production of Murder on the Orient Express at Playmakers Repertory Company

You will have to trust me that this “glamour turban” is also built on a scrim foundation. 

Costume from You Can’t Take It With You at Playmakers Repertory Company

I was asked by a friend/colleague how I thought this would function as the foundation for a large brim, presumably for a transparent cover fabric, maybe? And I definitely think it could be used in that application.

Blocked Dome crown teaching sample for my fall class

In fact, I loved working with it and plan to stock it at work so I can use it in other foundation applications.